清雅系列

茶艺师与茶的故事

  学茶,看你希望从中得到什么,如果你是真心喜欢茶,爱茶,那么不妨把眼光看得长远一些,不必太在意眼前的收入。而如果是纯粹把它当成是养家糊口的工具,以为学了一点茶的知识,就可以博取高薪,暂时恐怕比较难

  茶,一向被认为是中国传统文化的一部分,有了四五千年的历史,而以茶为业的人,譬如茶艺师,传承着这一古老的文化,从事的却是现代社会中的新职业。在大上海的霓虹灯下,就有这么一群人,他们的使命就是,将茶文化诠释给现代社会中的芸芸大众。以茶为业、古老而时尚

  在上海的湖心亭茶楼、宋园茶艺馆,常常会看到一些身着扎染印花布衣,或是中式对襟花衫的女服务员,他们中的一些人,或许就是茶艺师

  在位于城隍庙九曲桥上的那座有着100多年历史的湖心亭茶楼,记者见到了邹月萍,身着经过改良的浅金色旗袍上装,一头黑发拢在脑后,她是这座茶楼的副经理,也是上海首批30多位高级茶艺师之一。邹月萍1995年进入湖心亭,作为经理荣雅予老师的副手,她除了钻研茶艺,还常常为茶楼的经营管理出谋划策

  “除了有特殊的预约,比如接待外宾,平常我们是不做茶艺表演的。对于到我们茶楼喝茶的客人来说,那样的仪式未免显得有些做作和过于正式,但这并不意味着我们的工作就是简简单单地端茶送水。”

  “如果来的客人对茶文化不是很了解,我们就要给他们介绍各种茶的特点、口味、产地等,待客人点好茶之后,我们要负责帮他泡好这杯茶,然后告诉客人,为什么要用这样器皿、这样的水温、这样的程序来泡这种茶,让客人喝了茶,也懂了茶。”

  “有些客人来茶楼,并不是简单地来喝茶,而是来了解茶和茶道的知识,寻找一种文化,这个时候,如果能用自己所掌握的茶知识给他们一点启发,我就非常心满意足了。”

  邹月萍上个月刚刚去了法国,参加在那里举行的一个博览会,她带去了湖心亭茶楼的花茶,并在博览会上为参会者表演茶艺。“每到表演时间,周围总是围了很多人,他们对中国的茶文化不了解,很陌生。我把泡好的茶端给他们喝,再请翻译给他们介绍中国的茶文化,他们中的一些人非常感兴趣,临走前还会买一点中国的茶回去。这种时候老实说我压力很大,因为我的表演是不是到位,茶泡得好不好,就代表了中国茶的形象。当我看到很多老外了解了中国的茶,我非常自豪。”

  “中国的茶文化源远流长、浩如烟海,茶楼可以说是一个传播茶文化的载体,像我们这样的茶艺师,就是要利用这个载体,让更多人了解茶。”

  尽管如今上海有各类茶艺师培训班,可邹月萍和首届高级茶艺师培训班的同行们都觉得,就算学了高级茶艺师,也仅仅是学了一点皮毛,要当好茶文化的使者,不是件容易的事情

  闻芳是邹月萍在高级茶艺班的同学,宋园茶艺馆的一名高级茶艺师,以茶为业也已经5年了。她系统地参加了茶艺师初级、中级和高级培训班的学习。就她自己在茶馆工作的体会,闻芳觉得,一名茶艺师至少应该具备以下的素质

  首先,要懂茶,掌握丰富的茶知识。比如茶的品种、各类茶的主要生产场地、特性,懂得如何来鉴别茶,对中国古老的茶文化有一定了解

  其次,在懂茶的基础上要泡好茶,掌握泡茶的技艺。泡好一杯茶并非易事,要懂得如何选茶、择器、置水,要掌握好茶与水的比例、泡茶时间和浸泡程度。懂得了这些知识之后,还须用心去泡,因为茶汤的颜色、香气与滋味、口感,完全可能因为不同泡茶者的技法和感觉而不同。如果不是用心去钻研,而是按部就班地机械操作,很难泡好茶

  再次,要对中国的古典文化有所了解,唐诗宋词、书法绘画,了解了一些古代文化,再来理解茶文化,就能够触类旁通

  最后,茶艺师多少需要懂得一些插花的技巧、花语及不同风格的音乐等,最好再懂得一门外语,可以与其他国家的茶文化爱好者进行交流和沟通,也可以向海外人士介绍中国的茶文化

  “很多时候,茶叶只是一种载体,对于茶艺师来说,要能够运用好背景、服饰、配乐、演说等,来烘托出一种文化,让人们更加深切地感受茶、了解茶,让人们在浮躁、快节奏的生活中感受到宁静、淡泊的氛围。”闻芳说道

  茶艺,是一门艺术,可对于茶艺师来说,把茶艺当成职业,还是没办法避免收入的问题。在几乎被咖啡文化所占领的快节奏的都市生活中,茶文化,似乎有些阳春白雪、曲高和寡,而现代社会的人们,尤其是年轻人,似乎也很难有时间静下心来品茗叙情,专业经营茶、用心经营茶的茶楼本来就不多,茶楼的经营也十分不易,甚至很多茶楼老板自己对茶的了解也不深,在这样的大环境下,对职业茶艺师的收入,当然也不可能期望过高

  闻芳告诉记者,因为对茶的真心热爱,自己才在这一行钻研至今,自己的目标是将来能够成为一名职业茶艺师。她告诉记者,前些日子去日本,发现茶道和茶艺老师在那个国家非常受尊敬,一个专业茶艺师的身价相当于画家、钢琴师,这与茶文化在日本的普及和受推崇是分不开的。她相信,如果茶文化在国内也能够被越来越多的人们所认识,并且能够发扬光大,到那个时候,职业茶艺师一定会找到更宽广的空间。“而现在,正是茶艺师们朝着这个目标努力的时候吧!”

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